(Writing on the train…) The train is nice with several tables in the car so I’m able to sit and write easily. The seats are narrow. Jill, Beata, and Kelly would fit easily. Most of the rest of the family—even the fit ones—would feel a little “stuffed in.” As for me, omigod. Other than that, the train is nice (it’s ScotRail). Dogs are allowed and there are a few small ones walking up and down the aisle. Looking forward to the scenery, four hours worth.
When I go from Glasgow back to Manchester I’ll take a Virgin train (I can already hear my brothers’ wisecracks). They’re cool because they have electric sockets at each seat, so I’ll be able to use my computer.
Sent Easter cards to Rob and Beata, Jill and Todd, and Kayla and Hunter. Wrote them on the train.
Lots and lots of people (young and old) who are backpackers on the train, going north too.
Just borrowed a map from a young man and saw that the body of water we’re passing is Loch Lomond. (You take the high road and I’ll take the low road, etc.) Lovely and so close to Glasgow. Tried to get a booking there but because of Easter weekend everything was full in my price range. Now I’m glad it turned out this way. I’ve heard lots of good things about where I’m going.
Stopping at little Scottish villages (Arrocher and Tarbet and I write this) and they are just as I imagined they would be. Craggy peaks as a backdrop, small cottages tucked into hillsides, snow on the very tops of the peaks, lush plant life even some flowers, then barren hills. Amazing differences. Old cemetery, stone cottages, small stone church, another loch. View is breathtaking. Even my guidebook says taking the West Highland train offers the most scenic beauty.
Tired. Up since 5:30, but I don’t want to close my eyes and miss any of this. I am so lucky. As Kayla would say, “You are one lucky bug.” She got that from the movie Mulan.
Just rode by a ruin. Don’t know what it was but it was cool.
In the lochs there are little islands full of bare trees. I definitely sat on the right side of the train.
My guidebook says, “The timeless landscapes of the Highlands…are unrivalled in Britain. This land, etched from the brutal forces of nature, will sear itself in your mind. It is the last of the great European wildernesses, dominated by soaring peaks, unforgiving terrain, a stunning coast, and miles and miles and miles of empty, exhilarating space.” All forge from the last Ice Age.
Along a footpath I noticed a red phone booth. Once a staple everywhere in Britain, they are now a rarity and seldom seen.
Trees growing out of rocks.
Lochs all joined by a canal and the canal looks like a river.
I envy the backpackers, carrying everything you need on your back really simplifies your life. Everything boils down to necessity. Luxuries are dear and agonized over. When backpacking in the Tetons in the 80’s, our guide would say stuff like, “That gadget may seem important and may weigh only a few ounces, but it will feel like a ton after carrying everything on your back for a day.” And he was right.
Now I look at my suitcase, full of stuff I don’t need and clothes I probably won’t wear.
At each train stop, more and more people get on. More and more backpackers. Probably I’ll soon get a seatmate at my luxurious four-seater table. Nope—not this time—at Crianiarich. And this is where the train separates—the first two cars going to Oban and the last two cars going north to Fort William and then on to Mallaig on the coast. Upper Tyndrum is the next stop, followed by Bridge of Orchy, such cool names.
Now more people are getting off the train than on, so my place is secured. Cool. Having a cup of coffee and enjoying the scenery. The coffee sucks, but the scenery doesn’t.
The train passes backpackers on trails. It’s possible to walk the entire 104 miles from Glasgow to Fort William. Trails are everywhere and well-maintained.
Unbelievable that for £33 return, I get this luxury. I finally found a bargain.
Just went under a tiny arched bridge—maybe for pedestrians? But it was really old and the sides were lattice-worked metal. Almost missed it. Don’t know how the train fit under it, it looked so small.
Almost an hour until we reach Fort William, but I’m honestly in the moment and not anxious about getting there. I’ve been to so many mountains, but these are different. Not majestic like the Rockies, exotically lush like the ones in Hawaii, or eucalyptus endowed like the Blues. These are just different and have their own special beauty.
A German traveller sits across the aisle and his Baedeker’s says “Schotland.”
Now in Tulloch and it’s 11:30. The train has been absolutely on time at every single stop. I keep checking the timetable for fun.
A dad and his seven-year-old daughter sit across from me. She and I shared the wonder of a glorious rainbow. It looked like we would ride right under it. She wears all purple and is surprised when I ask her if purple is her favourite colour. “How do you know that?” Even her pen and paper are purple.
She’s Errin and he’s Stuart from Fife. On a holiday. Mom (Fiona) couldn’t get off from work. We passed Commemoration Hill at Spaen Bridge, a memorial to the fact that commandoes were trained there during World War II. Stuart says, “See that statue of two men, Errin? That’s where I proposed to your mother.”
“She said ‘yes’ didn’t she dad?”
It was really cute.
I took a cab to the hotel. Only £3. The hotel is ancient and beautiful, standing like a majestic matriarch overlooking Fort William. Only about three blocks from Town Centre, but it’s straight up. One can access it on foot by climbing torturous stairs or by walking along the road which is cut as a switchback into the hill. I took the stairs up ONCE. Enough.
Taking the stairs down is fine.
To backtrack. When I arrived at the hotel they had no reservation for me. I showed them my sheet from Prestige bookings and the woman said they had no record of it. Luckily a tour group was leaving and they had space for me. My room is charming. A king-sized bed with a window cut into a dormer. I love it.
Walked down (DOWN) to High Street—ironic, huh? And looked for a place for lunch. Went to Nevisports, a place to buy all sports equipment but which also has a restaurant. Then went to buy an umbrella because I’d given mine away in Glasgow to someone who needed it more. (Did I write about that already? Oh, well…)
Then back to my room where I played computer games, worked, caught up on some email (but I couldn’t send it).
Went to dinner at Highland Star. Excellent Chinese restaurant. Should have had a Chinese beer but I knew the climb up the hill to the hotel would kill me.
posted by Jerilyn Dufresne, author @ 16:01
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